Flying into Chiang Mai meant we were now on a trip that had been co-organized by Ms Aom, a Thai travel agent who we met during a tuk-tuk stop in a chain of stops designed to relieve tourists of some of their cash. We mentioned what we thought we wanted to see and poof, it was organized and paid for. And we were on our way to the next tuk-tuk stop. This was new to us as we have not had any of our travel organized by anyone other than friends we have traveled with in the past. We were to be met at the airport, shuttled to all our next accommodations with all tours, bus or taxis organized, a cooking class and some biking. We were a bit skeptical and had not needed any assistance in the past for these things, so “let’s give this a whirl!” Trial and error being our most often used fall back plan, LOL. We trust in the spirit of the moment and, surprisingly, it usually delivers. All we had to do was “just WhatsApp me” if we needed anything from Ms Aom or had any questions, or if travel was delayed or early. What could go wrong? I had put away the arrangements, all hand written receipts, in two languages, and felt a bit of PTSD about what we had done as we embarked on the next leg of our trip. It happened so fast! After a couple of days, I hauled out the receipts and organized them into my own spreadsheet with all the details in one file that I could access on my phone. 

The plane landed. The driver was there. My name was spelled correctly. Deborah. Check! He whisked us to our guesthouse. The location was spectacular!! The room was clean, aircon and we were surprised with each of us getting our own beds! Ha! Check! 

Chaing Mai is the second largest city in Thailand. The Chiang Mai province boasts over 1000 temples and the city has over 300. So this post will be sprinkled with temples too! Within the city is the old city, a square piece of land surrounded by a moat.

Walking the four corner circumference of the moat is about 6 kilometers. There are ruins of the old wall and many signs in multiple languages saying keep off. These folks either didn’t see it or are always up for a rule breaking challenge!

Our small room at the guesthouse had a fridge, air conditioning, a firm bed with soft pillows, and a café downstairs. It was quiet and we could ask for towels for the pool. The pool was cool. But welcome in 35 degree heat. Ms Aom asked if “everything ok”? Did the driver find us? Check! Wow. 

We headed out for a walk the first evening. Travel days are generally tiring so a walk and find a restaurant to have dinner was in order. We walked right in to park with a flower festival all lit up with lighting for evening strolls.

Then we found our favourite Thai restaurant, Lookbau(??). We ordered roast duck with mango, glass noodle salad with seafood, green papaya salad, and some rice. Beer served over ice is a favourite way to have it icy cold. It’s also a good addition to water replenishment. We thought it wouldn’t be good but we were mistaken (NB. add a lime twist to move the bar to max). Deb had a real world update one morning with just how well entrenched her coffee ritual/ habit was (and it didn’t go well) So we always found good coffee!

Both salads had the perfect amount of sweet, sour and salt and the glass noodle salad was made by stirring hot freshly cooked noodles into the rest so it was warm and cold at the same time. Our taste buds were going off! The perfectly ripened mangos here make you cry. So, the roasted duck with a bit of its crisp skin tossed in the sauce combined with the sweet and slightly tangy mango chunks left us wishing for more. But we were full. 

Our first full day in Chiang Mai included a half day cooking class at “Smart Cook Thai Cooking”. We were to be picked up between 1 and 1:30pm. The transport was a little late so within minutes we had texted Ms Aom and she let us know they were on the way. Our ride was a Songthaew, a covered pick up truck with two benches in the back used as shared taxis. The city does not have a transit system but the Songthaews are everywhere boasting 30 baht rides. We jumped in the back where three 20 yr old Canadian women, studying abroad in Singapore, were having a Thailand long weekend. They were going to the same cooking class.  First stop was the public market. The cooking school staffer who was in the front of the truck gave us each a menu of dishes we could choose 3 from, to prepare at the class. She invited us to look around the market while collected a few more items. Shopping for only about 10 minutes and we were off again. This market was outside the moat and having had a 10 minute tease, we vowed to come back when we had more time. 

Arriving at the cooking school Albert and I were added to a table of tourists. Two French, three German, one Brazil, two British and us. Our teacher laid down the game and we did as we were told. I chose to make Pad Thai even though I make it regularly at home. I learned that I could make it in minutes without soaking any noodles first!! Chiang Mai boasts a dish called Khao Soi, a noodle dish using a fresh paste made with fresh turmeric, lemongrass, galangal, cumin, peppercorns, coriander and chilis. The dish is garnished with crispy fried egg noodles. Albert made a local hot and sour chicken soup, stirfried holy basil with chicken and panang curry paste and curry . We all made mango sticky rice, an iconic streetfood eaten at all hours everywhere. 

Ms Aom had done it again. Cooking class success. Check!

Next day we had a day off to explore the area. We decided to stay within the moat. We always found good coffee.

We visited Wat Chedi Luang which blended a new temple with a ruin of an old, original temple, in fact the oldest temple in Chang Mai. The central square has a statue of the three kings who take credit for developing and establishing Chiang Mai back in the 1200s. While wanderings these places we noticed the city workers were blocking off roadways, setting up sound systems, food and clothing stalls were setting up and an obvious event was about to happen. Cool. Ms Aom had said we can go to the Chiang Mai Walking Street in our minute trip organizing time, and we realized they were setting up for this. We headed back for a rest and to cool off in some AC. At 7pm the streets were in full swing, the center square under the three kings had a stage with traditional Thai dancers, music was blaring, smoke from chargrills was whispping through the throngs. They did this every Sunday! WOW.

Sunday Walking Street. Check!

In the morning we were picked up by Andy. Ms Aom had arranged for him to drive us to Doi Suthep, the temple on the mountain above the city. 

After Doi Suthep, Andy asked if we were interested in the Long Necks. While he was driving, I googled them a little concerned that we were headed to a place where people were displayed against their will. This tribe were Kayan (Karen) refugees who left being persecuted in Myanmar.  As refugees they had no source of income and no way to work legally. A tourism representative consulted the women of the village to see if they would allow people come to see them and their cultural anomaly with an admission ticket. Approval meant they could also sell their artworks and weavings. And now they have a network of small and very primitive villages throughout Northern Thailand that have become a destination to see them, talk to them and take a picture with them.  We paid Andy 600 Baht for the two of us to go in. He said otherwise we would pay $500 each. The old ladies had the longest necks, most sloped shoulders and were very thin.

From the Karens, Andy drove us to Chetsi Fountain National Park where the Buatong waterfall has been nicknamed Sticky Falls. This waterfall has a surface of Tufa (calcium carbonate) making it easy to ascend in bare feet from the bottom of the valley. So we and hundreds of others did the same. 

Andy offered more places to visit but we were done. We still had another hour of driving to get back. Andy told us he worked with our Ms Aom in a hotel in Chiang Mai and that he really respected her. “She looks after her customers” AND her tourism contractors. Check! 

Next morning I thought we had the day off. When the knock on the door came at 7:10 am to inform us that our bus to Chiang Rai was here, we got up. Another two knocks and a scolding from the owner and we were on the bus at 7:20am. Our Bad! We had a three temple tour to Chiang Rai. It is a town 3 hours into the mountains. Coffee and breakfast obviously would have to wait. A rest stop an hour up the highway to gave a hit of caffeine and a banana. Now we could engage in the day.  First stop was at a hotspring where we could put our feet in the water. So were 10 more tour vans of Chinese, French and German tourists.

After that the bus offered anyone to go to the Long Neck Karens. A different group than the ones we had seen the day before. Only 300 Baht each! We hung out at the bus. We arrived at the Wat Rong Khun, The White Temple, and our tour guide explained that the temple was built recently by master Thai artist Chalermchai Kositpipat. Build it and they will come seemed to be the motivation here. As tourism soared, a new freeway/ motorway is being built slowing the present flow of traffic but a new destination is being delivered to the masses. And it was impressive. We were informed that outside the temple we could take pictures but his paintings inside were not to be photographed. The inside was very interesting and had modern imagery of iconic superheroes including Elvis, MJ, Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, Jack Sparrow, Yoda, Harry Potter and many Marvel heroes. There was also an image of the NYC twin towers on fire before they fell. The message, of course, was to trust the Buddha path of enlightenment and that false idols could not prevent disaster or provide sanctuary. I imagine if you are interested there are official photos online with deeper interpretations. Outside it was white with many mirrors. Walking through purgatory before entering the temple and paradise. Lots of messaging. And lots of tourists. One way traffic. Build it and they will come. 

Next stop was the Blue Temple, Wat Rong Suea Ten. It was rebuilt and decorated by an artist who trained with the White Temple master. The painting style was similar. The imagery was not. It was beautiful with its blue and gold interior. Beside the Blue Temple was an ice cream shop serving up blue coconut ice cream. Our tour guide said we shouldn’t miss it. He was right! Coconut Ice Cream infused with butterfly pea for the blue, blue coconut sticky rice, topped with peanuts and sesame. Served in fresh coconut shell with soft shards of coconut scraped from the sides of the bowl. Also served with a small glass of fresh light blue coconut water. Blue temple was good. Blue Ice Cream was great!

And we were off to the next colour. Black!

This destination was not really a temple but the residence and property with outbuildings of Thai legendary artist Thawan Duchanee. He has since departed but his son lives on the property and has opened it to the public and tourism. His very bold prints, sculpture work and collection of pelts, skins, tusks, antlers, bones and buildings were awe inspiring. Dark, but interesting. This was a highlight. Not to be taken lightly as art can be very controversial. It struck the chord between light, dark, harmony and disfunction. Easy to think and overthink.

And back from Chiang Rai to Chiang Mai. A 13 hour drive tour with a day off to follow. We packed up as the next day we were off too Pai, a small mountain town for 3 nights of peaceful harmony in the mountains. 

Chiang Rai – Our tour was good. Ms Aom had come through once more. Check.

The drive to Pai is a snake back winding road famous for its 762 turns through steep washed out jungly roads. And they were tight turns with lots of slow traffic and scooters shooting around the vans.  To be honest, it was beautiful when I opened my eyes and looked out, but my stomach was feeling pretty unsettled so mostly rested until we got there.  Arriving in Pai was mayhem!

We weren’t sure if we were in a busy market or if this was just the vibe. It was both. The average age around us was about 24. Scooter shops renting to everyone were everywhere. Tour companies offering multiple sights in one trip including river tubing parties, waterfall and temple hikes. In between were loud bars, pot shops, coffee shops, restaurants, clothing stores, food carts, and stray dogs. The 24 year olds were getting their feet wet in the hostel and travel scene. Some wanted to be stoners, some meditation seekers, and some just curious. All wanted to ride scooters. And they did. What did we do? Deb had a cold so we were pretty slow motion. We walked the roads and found a lovely spot to sip a beer before the nightly walking market opened and the street vendors closed the road …well not really, as tourist vans, mini busses and motor bikes snaked through the crowded streets giving the street market vibe an uneasy edge. We loved this part and the street food was good and inexpensive. 

We were there on a Friday and at noon the songtheauws went by with their pickups loaded with tubes. And shortly after with the 24 yr. olds. We walked to the river and saw them load the river with about 1000 human filled tubes and the promise of fun. Later on our walk up to the White Buddha we heard the rave and after sunset they all returned. Next day we saw many of them with bandages on their legs, arms and probably other parts!

The walk up to the White Bhudda was about a 5 k return. Not far but hot and I counted 325 steps to get to the temple below. Another 300 awaited us to go up. BUT I got busted starting up the steps as my shorts that almost but not quite cover my knees were not appropriate and I forgot my sarong to complete my cover up plan. 

We also walked past the gate to the area on the site of the battle between the residents of Chiang Mai province and Burmese soldiers in the 1400s. “Dum” translates to “South Gate”. Pra Too Dum. Language translations can be funny.

Pai – knowing what we know, we might have enjoyed staying in Chiang Rai more than Pai. If we were average age 24 we would have partied like crazy with all the others. Time to go – check!

A few weeks into our trip we saw that one of our students, Aaron, was heading for Thailand soon so we reached out to maybe have a visit while travelling. The stars aligned when we left Pai by mini van and had a bus ride to Sukhothai booked in Chiang Mai. We flew to Chiang Mai but wanted to see the country by road or train on the way back to Bangkok flight connections. We had a two hour wait in Chiang Mai and Aaron and partner Anika were there. We had a great visit and the time flew before we were on our bus to Sukhothai.

Our bus connections were flawless with Ms Aom texting regularly to make sure we were where we needed to be and that we had all that we needed. Check!

Arriving in Sukhothai we were picked up and whisked to our guesthouse in the old city right across the street from the Sukhothai Historical Park, a UNESCO world heritage site. Sukhothai was a large empire, and this was the center of the Thai universe before it became Thailand. The evening that we arrived had a street market along the water-way by the temple with mats and tables to enjoy the food. We met a couple about our age from Creston, BC in Canada and had a mini visit with them. Next day we used bikes from our guest house to tour the park with. Ms Aom had arranged this. Check!

After two nights and a full day of touring ruined remains of glorious past, we were on another bus to Ayutthaya. And so were the Creston Canadians, seated right beside no less!

Ayutthaya followed suit and was the main center after conquering the Sukhothai. Once again Ms Aom came through by booking a guest house a block from one of 50 old temples and ruins that are also a UNESCO site.  We met up with our Canadian friends for dinner and were amazed with the small world stories that we shared. 

After two nights in Ayutthaya and some spectacular walking amongst the ruins, we are headed to Cambodia. Our trip to Thailand has been full and we have enjoyed the diligence and honesty that our tour guide Ms Aom provided. We recommend her services and can send details to those who are planning. All the Thai people we have met have been gracious, generous and kind. We have never felt threatened and people truly want to help us with every question we have had.

Cambodia. Was this in the plans? Maybe… kinda. But it was super solidified when yet another student from years past reached out to say he and his wife live in Siem Reap. Local intel is huge so we are taking a 4 day fly in/ fly out visit enroute to Da Nang Vietnam!